Hello, as promised here is my account of my trip to Mont Blanc. As some of you may be aware, it didn't go very well for me, and it ended in returning home early with 4 stiches in my finger.
Day 1: "The Long Drive"
We (myself and Tom) set off from Birmingham at about 6.30am, picked Chris up, and headed straight for Dover. The car was buzzing and we were all soo excited to get cracking with some Alpinism. We got to Dover for a little before 10.30, and burnt some time with a hyper expensive buger king. The ferry trip was smooth, and now all that was between us and Chamonix was a 10 hour drive. There is one simple thing to say about this journey, France is dull! It seemed the view out of my window did not change for about 9 1/2 hours. We arrived at our hotel at 11.30pm only to find it shut. All being very tired from the journey we were just keen to get our heads down, so we opted for the nearest campsite, pitched up and went to sleep.
Day 2: "A night at Altitude"
I have never camped in France before, and did not realise that there are many more rules (not guidelines) surrounding campsites. Tom had woken early that morning worried that we would soon have the Police knocking on our flysheet and escorting us to the local cells. For those who are also unaware, you must declare yourself to the Campsite owner, and they must take copies of your passport, we had obviously not had the chance to do this. It turned out the lady who owned the campsite was lovely, didn't mind at all, and even chuckled at Tom's French. We spent the morning packing our mountaineering gear into our sacks, sorting food and making sure we were all ready for 2 nights on the mountain.
We burnt a couple of hours in town, and then at 2pm we rode the chair lift and Gondola up to Le Tour. From here we had a short 2 hour walk along a well worn trail to the Albert Premiere Hut (2702m) We got to the hut, and as we had decided to save ourselves some cash, we camped nearby. From here we got our first view of the dry Glacier, of which we were going to cross the following morning. With the camp set up we got some of our gear together and headed down to the Glacier, where Tom ran us through some vital skills such as Crevasse Rescue, movement in Crampons, roping up, and moving as a roped team. By this point we were all raring to go and couldnt wait for the next day. Back at the tent we cooked up some dinner and watched the sun go down. We were in our bags by 9pm as we were getting up at 3am to leave for 4am.
Day 3: "End Game"
Our intention for this day was to cross the Dry Glacier up to Col Blanc, past the Petite Fourche, over the Triente Glacier and to camp next to the Cabane du Trient (Hut). The third day of the acclimitisation would see us retrace the roue taken in both the first and second day.
We started early as intended and were soon in our crampons, roped up and negotiating the glacier. This was a great experience. Crevasses are extremely intimidating, with some being only 1ft wide and others being 6ft wide, but most leading into darkness, deffinitely not a place you want to fall in to. We were the first on the glacier, but the full moon acted as a great aid to lighting up a good route. As we looked behind us about 6am we could see the streams of head torches leaving the Albert Premiere Hut. We made our way off the glacier just as the sun was rising and headed for a col. We continued to where we were intending to drop down onto the Trient glacier but realised this descent was guarded by a vertical wall of rock. We retraced our steps and made our way around to the next col. Here we met many other people who had travelled from the Albert Premiere Hut, but it seemed many were on day trips and not heading over to the Trient Hut. The next step for us was to negotiate some tricky scrambling which would eventually lead us onto the glacier. We scrambled for ages on very loose rock, and at some point entire ledges caved away underneath us, fortunatly we always made it to safe ground. We could not see an easy way onto the Trient Glacier as a giant Bergschund (a void between glacier and rock) was blocking our travel. We re-evaluated our movements and decided it was best to head back to the Albert Premiere hut for that night, especially as it would not make a massive difference to our acclimitisation. We started head down off the loose scramble only to find our path back onto the glacier was blocked by another large bergschund. I belayed Chris off a huge boulder to investigate and we realised we had to go for yet another option. We contoured around the rock to find a shallow lul where we could walk around, down and avoid the bergshund, however having to be very careful of not disturbing a nearby snow bridge. The time was now almost midday, and were really needing to get off the Glacier quickly as the heat of the sun would soon start causing lots of issues with the glacier travel. We opted for a route that skirted the right of a large section of Crevasses' but this pushed us onto another section of boulders. This section was only about 100m long, and we could see the point where we could get back onto the glacier after having avoided the crevasses'. The boulders were very loose, and many slipped away from underneath our feet. We continued moving carefully, but this was very short lived. about 25m from the end of the boulder field I managed to disturb a rock, which was subsequently supporting more boulders about shoulder height. They started to slide, but the biggest (about 3ft wide) was coming straight towards my torso. In a natural reflex reaction i dropped my axe and pole, and put my hands forwards to push the boulder away from me, but the boulder caught my finger against another rock on its way through. I felt a sharp pain in my finger, as though it would if someone had stamped on your finger, I quickly removed my glove only to see it damaged and bleeding (lots!). In a panicked voice I said instantly "Tom! My fingers ******!!!) Chris and Tom were great, and they applied the pressure and got a bandage on in superb time, all the while I was keeping myself focused on not passing out! Now we were up a certain creek without a paddle.
Do we call a helicopter? Can we walk out? How bad is it? Is this the end of my trip? What is Naomi going to say? So much was going through my head, but at that point in time only one thing needed to happen, we had to make a decision, and it was to get off the boulder field (very nervously) and get off the Glacier as quickly as possible. On our way back towards the hut I still couldn't believe what had happened, and had the usual thoughts running through my head 'why didnt I move my hand? Why did we go that way? etc etc' None of that really mattered, we just needed to get down. We made it back to the Hut at about 2pm, and after a very short stop we made our way back to the lifts that we had got up the day before. We had not bought a return ticket, as we had previously intended to walk back intol the valley, but being an emergency we needed to get this lift down. We just jumped onto the first lift, and when we arrived at the mid way station to get the Gondola Tom and Chris played out a very convincing 'We were sure we bought returns' to the guard. The guard was won over in true Jedi style and were again on our way.
Chamonix hospital was shut so Tom drove me 30km to Sallanches where I was dealt with extremely efficiently. 1 hour, 1 xray, 4 stitches and 30 Euros later and I was fixed, kind of!
Day 4: "Decision Time"
This day was a rest day, in which we just mooched around Chamonix, but all the while I was having to debate what I was going to do. We found out the weather window for Mont Blanc was perfect, but realistically could I still climb with my finger, and essentially hand out of action. That evening we took the dressing off my finger to reveal my wound, it was very tender, and was not in any way in good form for mountaineering. I knew I could walk, and could physically do it, but was not so convinced I would be of any use on the mountain should I need to arrest a fall into a crevasse, and if I did what potential damage would this do to my finger, we may find ourselves back on the mountain again, with more blood loss, and a man down a crevasse, less than ideal! After a few phonecalls home asking for my parents wisdom, and trying to realistically weigh up the situation I decided it would be best for me to return back to the UK.
Day 5: "Back to the UK"
By 11am I was on my transfer bus to Geneva Airport (The world's most expensive place) and I was due to fly SleazyJet at about 4pm. All day I was unsure I had made the right decision, I was really hoping so. I flew to Gatwick, and met my Dad who took me back to my parents house near Brighton where I spent a few days recovering.
Chris and Tom successfully summited Mont Blanc on the Tuesday, and I was so happy that they got it!
My finger is well on its way to recovering, and the stitches are coming out in 2 days. It is a shame the trip ended this way, but in heindsight I feel I made the right set of decisions. In the future i will hopefully get the chance to bag Mont Blanc, but this was clearly just not the right time.
Cheers for reading, I hope you enjoyed.
Matt