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Langdale Pikes

Middlefell Buttress: Private Guiding

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£200.00
Product code: 1073

Availability: In stock

  • Book a group of 2 for £110.00 per person

Quick Overview:

Middlefell Buttress is found behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, nestled deep in the Langdale Valley. There is much good climbing found on these crags but Middlefell Buttress is a classic that stands out, and is extremely popular as a route to introduce people to the delights of multi pitch mountain routes.
We will meet outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and walk the short distance up the fellside to the start of the climb.
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Details

Grade: D ***
  A classic route for beginners
Length: 75m
Walk in Distance: 0.5km
Walk in Time: 15 minutes
Walk out Distance: 0.5km
Adjacent Summits: The Langdale Pikes (736m)
First Ascent: 24th September 1911 by J Laycock, S W Herford and A R Thomson
Start Time: 10am or as arranged
Maximum Group Size: 2
Minimum Group Size: 1


"A popular route which can be climbed in all conditions."
Biden, 1999

Middlefell Buttress is found behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, nestled deep in the Langdale Valley. There is much good climbing found on these crags but Middlefell Buttress is a classic that stands out, and is extremely popular as a route to introduce people to the delights of multi pitch mountain routes.

We will meet outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and walk the short distance up the fellside to the start of the climb.


  1. 15m. Climb the chimney left of the wall and from the top of the detached pinnacle above, make an awkward step across to a large ledge.
  2. 45m. Climb a short slabby wall and follow the well worn trail up the rounded rib to belay just below a large terrace. A particularly polished ramp at around 8 metres is awkwardly delicate but there are intermittent stances and belays if required.
  3. 15m. Move up to the wall behind the terrace and re-belay. Start the wall by traversing in from either right (original) or left (harder) to gain cracks and the final corner. Climb this exiting right.
  4. 20m. Climb a short, steep slab higher up on the right, actually the right wall of Raven Crag Gully. Further scrambling then leads up to the Gimmer path.
Biden, 1999

There are a few variations of this route, with opportunities to make it slightly harder for a pitch or two. The top of the route can also lead on to more scrambling or even another multi-pitch route on Gimmer Crag such as Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VD*** 56m)

We have multiple descent options that will lead us back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for the walking in and walk out of this climb. Harnesses and helmets can be provided by The Lake District Walker if required. please see Equipment Required for further guidance.

 

Where to meet: The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Langdale
View Larger Map
Postcode: LA22 9JY
Grid Reference: NY 286 061

Directions

From Ambleside: Leave on the A593, signposted to Langdale and Coniston, follow this road until the junction with Ellers Brow, turn right onto Ellers Brow, signposted to Chapel Stile and Langdale. 

Follow this road through the village of Chapel Stile and continue past the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel to the right, continue along this lane to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, on the right, there is a National Trust pay and display car park outside the Hotel for walkers.

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  • Middlefell Buttress

    A good day today in the Langdale Valley, climbing Middlefell Buttress then scrambling the ridge above and descending back to the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

    From the Old Dungeon Ghyll we climbed the slope behind the hotel toward Raven Crag, taking the left and buttress, Middlefell Buttress.

    A few light showers passed over before we started climbing the route. The smooth holds were getting a little slippery as the drizzle fell, but with a bit of care it wasn't too bad.

    After three pitches we reached the top of the climb, but chose to continue upwards, climbing up to the right to find a continuation  the route above the gully and scrambling up the shoulder to the path above.

    We descended quickly to the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

  • Rock Climbing in Langdale

    A great afternoon rock climbing today.

    We climbed several routes on Sticklebarn Crag before rounding the day off with some abseiling.

    A great afternoon in wonderful weather!

  • Langdale Rock Climbing

    A good Rock Climbing Session this morning on Sticklebarn Crag in the Langdale Valley although a little damp. We had a good session climbing up the right hand side of the flake although a little slippery!

  • Langdale Rock Climbing

    A good morning in the sun today rock climbing in the Langdale Valley. We climbed behind the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel to Sticklebarn Crag.

    We had good fun climbing several routes on the crag before descending back to the hotel for lunch.

  • Rock Climbing - Wodens Face

    A good short session climbing on Wodens Face in the Borrowdale Valley.

    We climbed a few good short routes on the right hand face of the crag including Wodens Cheek.

  • Rock Climbing on Castle Rock

    A great morning in the sun Rock Climbing on Castle Rock above St Johns in the Vale.

    We climbed several routes on the south face of Castle Rock, from Moderate to VDiff grades.

    A great morning, we even had a fly past below us by a RAF Hercules aircraft!

  • Rock Climbing on Wodens Face

    A good morning session Rock Climbing on Wodens Face today, although the weather had been a little damp the rain stopped by the time we met up at the Bowderstone car park. The rock face was a little damp so  we kept to the easy routes on the left hand side of the crag and spent an enjoyable morning on the crag.

  • Rock Climbing

    A good mornings rock climbing on Sticklebarn Crag above the Langdale Valley today.

    We took in three good routes in wonderful warm sunshine before lunch.

  • Langdale Activity Day

    An awesome day down in Langdale today running one of our action packed Activity Days.

    The morning saw us walk up to Stickle Barn Crag for a few hours of Rock Climbing. After getting the harnesses and helmets on, and setting up the top rope we started on the far left of the crag. The group was mixed between a couple who did not climb, and a couple who climb indoors but were yet to venture outside. Everyone tackled the first climb very well, and all anxiety was soon climbed away.

    After a slight adjustment of the rigging we then climbed another slightly harder route. After more very impressive climbing we all went to the top of the crag for a spot of abseiling. This was a new experience for almost everyone, but everyone did really well!

    Just as we were packing up it started to rain, which was a good thing as it would put a bit more water in the Ghyll!

    At 2pm we got kitted up into our Ghyll Scrambling gear and headed for Stickle Ghyll, after a quick briefing we got into the Ghyll. The scramble consisted of boulder hopping, traversing walls and climbing up waterfalls. Everyone had an amazing time throughout the session as the pictures show!

  • Rock Climbing

    A good morning today rock climbing on Sticklebarn Crag in the Langdale Valley.

    Although the weather was a little damp we had good fun on several routes on the left hand side of Sticklebarn Crag.

  • Langdale Activity Day

    A magnificent day today running a Langdale Activity Day.

    After meeting outside the Stickle Barn Pun in Langdale, we got our rock climbing kit together and made our way up to the Stickle Barn Crag. After sorting out the top ropes the Emily, Sam and Andrew were taught how to 'tie-in' and belay before cracking on with some climbing. Everyone climbed very well, even when they did a route that was much harder than the first, and in the wet! The showers were short and separated by some glorious sunshine, British summer working its magic! After a couple of climbs the group enjoyed an abseil down the face of the crag.

    After a spot of lunch back down in the car park we got our Ghyll scrambling kit on and headed for Stickle Ghyll. Due to the recent rainfall the ghyll was high which meant it was going to be great fun! Once again the group did really well and had loads of fun climbing the waterfalls, jumping in the pools and boulder hopping!

  • Langdale Activity Day

    The weather was a bit mixed today, well it was a typical British Summers Day with Showers one second followed by scorching sun the next!

    This morning we headed up onto Stickle Barn for a spot of climbing and we managed to get 3 routes in and an Abseil amongst the short showers.

    After lunch we kitted up and got into Stickle Ghyll for a really fun Ghyll Scrambling Session. Everyone, especially the kids, did really well tackling all the hard bits we could do on a day when the water was really powerful!

     

  • Ghyll Scrambling & Rock Climbing

    A full days activity in the Langdale Valley with a mornings Rock Climbing session followed by and afternoon Ghyll Scrambling in Stickle Gill.
  • Rock Climbing & Ghyll Scrambling

    A day above the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in the Langdale Valley, a mornings Rock Climbing Session followed by an afternoon Ghyll Scrambling in Stickle Gill.

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