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Ennerdale Horseshoe

Middlefell Buttress: Private Guiding

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    Middlefell Buttress is found behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, nestled deep in the Langdale Valley. There is much good climbing found on these crags but Middlefell Buttress is a classic that stands out, and is extremely popular as a route to introduce people to the delights of multi pitch mountain routes. We will meet outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and walk the short distance up the fellside to the start of the climb.
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    Grade: D ***
      A classic route for beginners
    Length: 75m
    Walk in Distance: 0.5km
    Walk in Time: 15 minutes
    Walk out Distance: 0.5km
    Adjacent Summits: The Langdale Pikes (736m)
    First Ascent: 24th September 1911 by J Laycock, S W Herford and A R Thomson
    Start Time: 10am or as arranged
    Maximum Group Size: 2
    Minimum Group Size: 1

     

    "A popular route which can be climbed in all conditions."
    Biden, 1999

     

    Middlefell Buttress is found behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, nestled deep in the Langdale Valley. There is much good climbing found on these crags but Middlefell Buttress is a classic that stands out, and is extremely popular as a route to introduce people to the delights of multi pitch mountain routes.

    We will meet outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and walk the short distance up the fellside to the start of the climb.

     

    1. 15m. Climb the chimney left of the wall and from the top of the detached pinnacle above, make an awkward step across to a large ledge.
    2. 45m. Climb a short slabby wall and follow the well worn trail up the rounded rib to belay just below a large terrace. A particularly polished ramp at around 8 metres is awkwardly delicate but there are intermittent stances and belays if required.
    3. 15m. Move up to the wall behind the terrace and re-belay. Start the wall by traversing in from either right (original) or left (harder) to gain cracks and the final corner. Climb this exiting right.
    4. 20m. Climb a short, steep slab higher up on the right, actually the right wall of Raven Crag Gully. Further scrambling then leads up to the Gimmer path.
    Biden, 1999

     

    There are a few variations of this route, with opportunities to make it slightly harder for a pitch or two. The top of the route can also lead on to more scrambling or even another multi-pitch route on Gimmer Crag such as Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VD*** 56m)

    We have multiple descent options that will lead us back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

    Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for the walking in and walk out of this climb. Harnesses and helmets can be provided by The Lake District Walker if required. please see Kit List tab above for further guidance.
     
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    The Lake District Walker
    11 Victoria Road
    Cockermouth
    Cumbria
    CA13 9PA
    Company No: 7173226

    0780 592 9132
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