“A summit deserving of detailed exploration and rewarding visitors with very beautiful views. Rank Bowfell amongst the best half-dozen”
A Wainwright
The Langdale Valley lagged behind in climbing history, with just a handful of routes having been established before the turn of the century. This route on Bowfell Buttress was responsible for unlocking an amazing venue for both summer and winter ascents. This is another extremely popular classic, and to have this route to yourself would be a real rarity!
Starting from the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel nestled deep in the Langdale Valley we make our way westwards up the fellside ascending 'The Band'. Towards the top of this spur we will meet the climbers traverse which leads us along the base of the huge crags, and finally to Bowfell Buttress where our route starts.
“The mountains will always be there, the trick is to make sure you are too”
Hervey Voge
- 14m. Climb the ridge to a good belay.
- 9m. Climb the short smooth chimney on the right and easy ground to a terrace.
- 12m. Climb the steep wall above moving diagonally leftwards to a sentry box in a chimney.
- 18m. Follow the chimney for about 12 metres and continue up easy ledges to a large terrace sloping down to the right; follow this for about 7 metres and belay at the foot of a highly polished crack.
- The crack is very steep, slippery and awkward, and would probably be a higher grade if it were not for tradition and the comforting, ample grass terrace below. Once standing on the rock ledges above, slabby rock leads back left to a pinnacle belay.
- 18m. Move left and ascend a groove leading to a chimney. Go up to a slab and continue up the wall above until a short traverse left across the corner leads to a platform and large belay.
- 18m. Step back to the right and follow a groove and its left-hand branch to finish.
After topping out of the route we will make our way onto the fellside, and the couple of hundred metres to the fantastic summit of Bowfell. After taking in the views, and arguably the best in Lakeland, we will descend southwards to the Three Tarns, where we will regain The Band which will lead us back to our start point.
Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for the walking in and walk out of this climb. Harnesses and helmets can be provided by The Lake District Walker if required.
Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for their chosen event, please see Kit List tab above.
Where to meet: The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Langdale
Postcode: LA22 9JY
Grid Reference: NY 286 061
Directions
From Ambleside: Leave on the A593, signposted to Langdale and Coniston, follow this road until the junction with Ellers Brow, turn right onto Ellers Brow, signposted to Chapel Stile and Langdale.
Follow this road through the village of Chapel Stile and continue past the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel to the right, continue along this lane to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, on the right, there is a National Trust pay and display car park outside the Hotel for walkers.
Each participant is expected to have suitable personal equipment for their activity this should include the following:
- Walking shoes / Boots
- Waterproof clothing (Jacket and trousers)
- Suitable clothing for walking (no jeans)
- Warm tops
- Packed lunch
- Spare clothing
- Water
- Hat
- Gloves
Please also bring any personal climbing equipment, anything you don't own will be prvided by The Lake District Walker
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