“A popular route which can be climbed in all conditions”
Biden, 1999
Middlefell Buttress is found behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, nestled deep in the Langdale Valley. There is much good climbing found on these crags but Middlefell Buttress is a classic that stands out, and is extremely popular as a route to introduce people to the delights of multi pitch mountain routes.
We will meet outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and walk the short distance up the fellside to the start of the climb.
“The mountains will always be there, the trick is to make sure you are too”
Hervey Voge
- 15m. Climb the chimney left of the wall and from the top of the detached pinnacle above, make an awkward step across to a large ledge.
- 45m. Climb a short slabby wall and follow the well worn trail up the rounded rib to belay just below a large terrace. A particularly polished ramp at around 8 metres is awkwardly delicate but there are intermittent stances and belays if required.
- 15m. Move up to the wall behind the terrace and re-belay. Start the wall by traversing in from either right (original) or left (harder) to gain cracks and the final corner. Climb this exiting right.
- 20m. Climb a short, steep slab higher up on the right, actually the right wall of Raven Crag Gully. Further scrambling then leads up to the Gimmer path.
Biden, 1999
There are a few variations of this route, with opportunities to make it slightly harder for a pitch or two. The top of the route can also lead on to more scrambling or even another multi-pitch route on Gimmer Crag such as Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VD*** 56m)
We have multiple descent options that will lead us back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.
Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for the walking in and walk out of this climb. Harnesses and helmets can be provided by The Lake District Walker if required.
Each participant will be required to bring suitable equipment for their chosen event, please see Kit List tab above.
Each participant is expected to have suitable personal equipment for their activity this should include the following:
- Walking shoes / Boots
- Waterproof clothing (Jacket and trousers)
- Suitable clothing for walking (no jeans)
- Warm tops
- Packed lunch
- Spare clothing
- Water
- Hat
- Gloves
Please also bring any personal climbing equipment, anything you don't own will be prvided by The Lake District Walker
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